Friday, February 6, 2009

Everest Revisited

Reflections on the trip from Mo and Big T:






From Mo:

I honestly can't believe that our trip is over. Just gone and done! I can't believe the 5:30am wake up calls have ended and the hikes around Delhi have been replaced by trips to ACSA with my friends. The crystal blue skies have been changed to grey Delhi ones and the millions of stars have just disappeared. Something that once consumed so much of my life and thoughts is now suddenly gone and I often find myself wishing i had it back. It seems just like yesterday that i boarded a small 8 seat er Gorka Airlines plane that started our journey, the excitement evident on my face I'm sure, because I sure couldn't contain it. That feeling stayed with me almost every second of the trip, even when we had been climbing inverted down hill for what seemed like forever!


This trip has, even though it was only 18 days, shaped me so much. The 4 or 5 months I spent training taught me diligence and determination. To not give up even when it hurts. During the trip I learned countless lessons about life, the Gospel and about myself. Now, after it's been over I've learned to not take a single second for granted, to make the most of each minute I have because you'll never know when it could end.


One of my favorite days was the 3rd day of the trip. It was an acclimation day which I thought meant we got to rest. I was wrong, but it turned out to be better. We were going to hike to the highest 5 star hotel in the world. My brother and I climbed together, we talked and encouraged each other all the way. Then when we reached the hotel, we sat on the benches and ordered drinks, just relaxing and taking in the miraculous views and things we saw. It had been a while since we had done anything together just us two so it was really nice to sit and talk with him. Then Dad showed up and we talked all together. That is just one of the many bonding experiences that we had. I loved every single second of the trip.


The views were miraculous and even if I tried to describe them I still wouldn't be able to do them justice. I can't believe I saw the things I did. The magnificent mountains that soared into the sky were amazing. The beauty of the trees and rivers were just incredible. Everywhere I turned there was something beautiful to behold, my heart was always filled with joy. There was something about being on that trip, being in the mountains that made me happier than I'd ever been in my short 13 (almost 14) years. I felt my spirits soar most mornings as I stepped out into the rays of light and thought of what the day held for me. Each time we rounded a corner and saw a new sight I couldn't help but gasp in wonder. Sometimes now in school I'll drift off day-dreaming and I'll find myself back on the trail hiking back up the mountain.


My dad and I were hiking partners most of the way up. It was so nice to have him to follow, stepping in his footsteps a lot of the way up the mountain. When I got tired he would stop and rest with me. When I was in front he never pressured me to go faster. He was always there behind or in front of me, never going too far away, always there when I needed him.




I never thought the trip would end so quickly. It was a life changing experience that I will never forget. The images and sights have imprinted in my memory never to be forgotten. I'll never forget making it to base camp and finding out it was just a bunch of rocks. I was disappointed at first but then realized it wasn't about the destination, it was about the journey we took to get there. The laughs and memories of everyone I gained are innumerable and priceless. The time we spent together on this trip has made a unique bond between us and this trip has a special place in my heart and will forever stay there never to be replaced!



Taylor chose to describe his feelings in a poem:


Never Stop Walking by Taylor Seipert
You set off for the time of your life
Not knowing if you will ever be able to make your goal
You start off sharp as a knife
Not even seeing the toll
Soon your spirit turns to strife
And you feel that your fire is now a coal
Even as you are seeing the splendor
You feel you can't press on
But when the goal comes into sight
You feel that coal ignite
And press on till there is nothing left







Monday, February 2, 2009

Everest in a Nutshell...a big nutshell!

Just in case anyone was wondering if my family fell off a mountain somwhere between Everest and home, I can assure you they made it back safe and sound. It's just taken me a way more time to get this post put together than I ever dreamed it would!

The following is a culmination of notes taken by Dave McIllece. A day to day inventory in bullet form. You will see the names Shishir & Pampha several times--Shishir was their guide and Pampha their travel agent. If you don't have the energy to read all the bullets be sure you at least scroll down to see all the pics.


Base Camp Adventurers: Seiperts (Richard, Morgann, Taylor), Byrnes (Al, Matt, Cam, Grandpa Buzz), and McIlleces (Dave, Zac).

Between the three families there were almost 6000 pictures taken. Obviously I cannot post all 6000 but I have done my best to include as many of the most relevent and dinamic photos possible. Enjoy!


Hike Day 0: December 18th, 2008
Departed Delhi on time at about noon
Arrived in Kathmandu by 2 PM
Pampha, Al, and Buzz met us at terminal – transport in large Toyota Hiace
Dropped Bags at Hotel Vaishali
Went to Monkey temple: Swayambhunath Temple
Dinner at good restaurant, forget the name…
O/N at Hotel Vaishali; bought water, repacked for flight and hike

Hike Day 1: December 19th, 2008
Flew to Lukla (2840 m),
Flight scheduled for early departure, but fog delayed
tookoff about 10:00, arrived about 11:00 AM
repacked some for trail / sherpas
ate lunch at Khumbu Resort
Departed Lukla at 1:30pm
hiked down hill (and up) to Phakding (2610 m)
arrived at 3:45 pm
tough for Zac and I; first day, altitude adjustment mostly (but no AMS symptoms)
Dinner at restaurant at hotel: Tashi Tagey lodge
Matt barfed 10+ times that night; sickness most likely from exposure during the day hike
Most slept well – Dave woke several times for toilet, heard Matt



Hike Day 2: December 20th, 2008
Phakding (2610 m) to Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
AM – woke (6:30)
brushed
repacked (Zac’s bag lightened, now using camelback)
Taylor barfed before leaving (oh, oh)
ate breakfast @ hotel: oatmeal & pancakes
Dave ‘s breakfast was yum – but Matt still barfing
left for hike at 8:15 AM
Zac + Matt, Al/Buzz/Dave slower
Matt struggled, got a horse
Made it to Bengkar guest house (2905 m) by 10 AM
at foot of Thamserku (6608 m, 21,729 ft)– pretty mountain
hiked until noon, passed check point
Sagharmatha National Park entrance, entered park
Stopped past cool bridge – to Jorsalle Village
stopped for lunch – 12:10
Matt still ill
Taylor doing better
Zac still doing well
left lunch 1:00pm
hiked up, up, up to Namche Bazaar – arrived approx. 4 pm
stopped along the way for oranges
tough uphill hike!
Dave mild headache, possible AMS symptoms? Took advil, went away
Hotel Shangri-la, room 109
showers 250 NRS each! Zac, Dave, and most others hit the showers
laundry drop off
dinner – good! sherpa stew!

Hike Day 3: December 21st, 2008
Syangboche- Everest View Hotel
Supposed to be ‘acclimatization day’ – little rest!
plan to go up from Namche Bazaar, then return – for the view, short ‘picnic’
slept in till 7:30am
9:00 am breakfast
9:30 Go, steep hike
Great views!
Everest
Ama Dablam (dramatic)
Tabouche peak
Lhotse also, near everest
drinks at hotel – expensive lemonade!
picnic with yaks; thanks to Al for the summer sausage!
phone calls – attempts! Al and Richard got through; Dave’s call failed
Kids returned downhill fast!
attempted foot massage (closed for season)
bakery
laundry receive – some sock still wet
recharged batteries
ate dinner, went to bed tired!

Hike Day 4: December 22nd, 2008
Namche Bazaar to Kumjung – then on to Mong La
ate at 8 am
left at 9 am
climbed to ‘airport’ near Everest view hotel
crossed runway to small stupa
by 10:45 we were above the runway
break time; flew kite (tried to), good pictures, good view from hilltop
to Kumjung (3780 m) QUICK…Shishir said this was the destination??
downhill – arrive 11;45!
decided to press ahead – next day hard day
went to Kumjung monastery then ate lunch from 12 to 1
re-started hike at 1pm
arrived at Mong La (3973 m) @ 3pm
cut ‘hardest day’ in half
took pics of Ama Dablam (6856 m)
awesome!
sunset pics
stars- awesome (pics, not so much; didn’t know how to get camera to do ultra-long exposures!!)
Did some long exposure pics in lodge: Matt as Buddha, Zac & Morgann as arms, fun!
Colder night 30 degrees bedtime, 25 degrees sunrise (windchill even colder)


Hike Day 5: December 23rd, 2008
Mong La (3973 m) to Dole (4200 m)
up at 6:30 – morning pics w/Al, Buzz, Richard
Richard the ‘yeti’ – uphill
Awesome AM pics
Breakfast 8am
start hike 9 am
arrived Dole (4200 m) @ 12 noon!
FAST! but feeling good.
lunch at 2pm
filled water bottles, napped
Richard and Cam climbed hill above camp
clouds moved in, then no more pics
Richard got some from above clouds
cold water face/hands wash
Zac minor burn on stove pipe – ok
learned to play bridge – sort of
played till dinner
ate 6pm – sherpa stew, cheese pizza
talked after dinner, Richard’s career, Dave’s assignment
Buzz’s question reminded Dave:
Today exactly 13 years in AF service (Dec 23) 95-08
STARS! – Awesome, even Milky Way visible
Taylor, Dave, talked about the North Star
Cold night in ‘meat cellar’ rooms
getting hot water bags for sleeping bags
sleep 9pm
C-O-L-D
back door wouldn’t close!
propped with ladder – stone, still open in morning!
Used Pee bottle!
Washed in AM, frozen water
whimpering, sniffing, coughing, lots of Nose strips
room stayed above freeze ~ 35 degrees in room; but it didn’t feel that warm!

Hike Day 6: December 24th, 2008
Dike (4200m) to Machhermo (4470 m)
6:30 rise, clear sinuses YUK
COLD!
7:00 – Morgann’s shrieks, won’t get out of her bag!!
Taylor actually used squatter! (toilet)
8:00 breakfast, survivor videos; also lost, found Richard’s camera lens cap
9:10 on trail
clear, bright, warm
climb steep at first
some mild symptoms (headaches) so slowed down – kids – FAST!
Al gave the Pep Talk: – let’s go slow, enjoy scenes, family time, better acclimatize
All slowed, enjoyed more
Byrne’s, McIllece’s staged photos, cliffhangers, summiting, FUN
‘Merry Christmas’ w/ other trekkers along the way
By 12, wind picked up – adding layers
saw ‘Snapping Turtle’ mountain (Taboche or Cholatse peak? unsure)
clouds closed in
Colder temps 35 degrees without chill, guess 20 degrees with chill
BRRRR, -15 degrees, Tough last hour for the hike
checked GoreTex
Outer layers
Arrived at Machhermo (4410 m)
Yeti Lodge
Seipert’s arrived 1st, explored ridges, flew kite, we saw from a distance, waited for group
ARRIVED @ 2:30 pm
symptoms better, still a few
Common room,
ordered lunch
stove HOT! (yes!)
Yaks in the yard of our lodge
‘Joker Team!’ Richard, Al, Matt – hiked up valley – came back at dark
rest stayed played bridge
Dinner – Christmas Eve special meals: beef stew, chick n’ rice, chicken teriyaki, Richard offered grace
dessert: raspberry crumble
videoed family messages
post dinner: Dave read Luke 2, Bible Christmas Story
Slept, warmer at night, nose strips for ALL, and to all a good night…
Used both pee bottles!



Hike Day 7: December 25th, 2008
Merry Christmas!
Machhermo (4470m) to Gokyo (4800 m)
Up at 6:45am
Santa Came!
Zac skittles, gum
We love you Mom!
Morgann & Taylor opened pics of their new Ipods
Love you Mom!
stockings in common room (Thanks to Al, Reese’s PB Cups!)
Dave washed hair with Byrnes using hot water bottle water (just ‘warm’ then)
Started on trail by 9 am
Beautiful start, great views
sunshine, warm
slower climb
wind worse, colder
lost sun – clouds
great glacier river views
mix w/lake-fed stream
yaks and birds along the way
Zac got too cold, slow adding layers, miserable!
pushed ahead
beautiful lakes
lakes 1,2,3
ducks
moss or other type of weed under water – amazing!
vistas across lake 3 amazing
Arrived 1-1:30 at Gokyo to Gokyo resort, nice accommodation
lunch at about 3
talked about layers
Morgann bucket shower – efficient!
Seipert boys & Zac washed hands, head, hair, faces with leftover hot water
Dave used rest to wash socks and Zac underwear (COLD hands)
wash, (agitate) wring, rinse, wring
bagged in Ziplocs
hang to dry on trek poles in rooms (to freeze!)
THEN…
report from another trekker (Australian and his Sherpa)…
Dragnag lodges all closed!
would require 12-14 hours climb over pass at 5170 m
CHANGE OF PLANS
Tomorrow no rest
Descend to Phortse (7 hour day) back down path then…
27th Phortse to Periche (or best effort climb up 400 m!)
28th Periche to Labouche
29th Labouche to Gorakshep
or
Acclim. day in Labouche
30th – on – back to schedule? we’ll see
Ate Christmas dinner, like Christmas Eve – mountain house meals, yummy
Zac sleeps with other 3 boys in common room
Early departure! (-15 degrees C outside tonight)



Hike Day 8: December 26th, 2008
“The Big Downhill” – not really downhill!
Gokyo (4800 m, 15750 ft) to Phorste 3800 m
7 Hour Drive!
Left at 7:30am
24 degrees F left
by lake 1 30 degrees F,
snow started, cold windy day, SNOW
Downhill 1st
icy bridge over stream… creaky bridge
Then Heavy uphill climb – tough!
Lunch at small lodge, (run down) name _____________
Hobbit outhouse on cliff – COLD!
Dried out some
jerky, soup, chapattis
Pushed to Phortse, arrived 4:30 pm, snowing, COLD
many, wet, tired, tough
I became mildly hypothermic, too much sweat!
learned to regulate layers ONLY ONE wind breaker outer if used
I felt VERY sick
concerned about lungs
talked about contingency to separate from group, descend if too ill to continue
All OK – checked with Shishir – would use our own porter if needed
Talked to Richard – received priesthood blessing – Zac was concerned before
Dinner OK
DRIED OUT ALL SOCKS – finally (and Zac’s underwear!)
Slept well, but COLD!
I love those Pee Bottles! YEAH!

Hike Day 9: December 27th, 2008
Left Phortse (3800 m) to Orshyo (4100 m)
Left at 7:30
steep climb 1st hour
beautiful, clear weather; sun broke over ridge and warmed us up
wildlife spotted – 1st lophophorous (pheasant), 2nd Rams, ewes, mountain goats
Himalayan Tahr
Bunch of Yaks, up high, domesticated Yaks, Yows
Moderate climb to Orshyo arrived at 2pm
washed socks, hair, faces outside in yard
filled water
ate sunflower seeds, drank cocoa
nice upstairs lodge
Afternoon: played cards, dried socks, told war stories (injuries, pain, etc)
Bedtime about 8 pm

Hike Day 10: December 28th, 2008
Orshyo (4100 m) to Dughla (4620 m)
Up at 6 – breakfast
Matt not well, Richard/Dave talked to Al/Matt, gave Matt priesthood blessing
left at 7:30
good clear skies
some wind at our backs – light
25 degrees F at start
Taylor nauseous but he “manned up”
sun broke ridge about 8:30, warmed up some
still wind was cold
Paused in Periche
Himalayan lodge NICE
best outhouse in Nepal
nice view of stream
juniper leaves to cover waste and odor
Long, slow, climb through side valley with icy, bubbling brook.
Great views of Ama Dablam behind us
Arrived Dughla 12:00
busy spot – only 1 lodge – but had rooms available
unpacked, ate lunch by 2pm
smoke bothersome to me – ventilation very poor
took a nap under blanket
Richard tried to climb hill – too cloudy
Reassessed plan again with Shishir
Decided to
1. climb from Dhughla (4620 m) to Labouche (4900) tomorrow (29th)
2. Climb to Base camp, then Gorakshep as planned on 30th.
3. 31st plan to go ahead with Kala Patthar climb early (those who want) then descend to Periche for New Year’s Eve.
4. Then on 1st, push down to Tengboche (past Pengboche)
5. Go on 2nd to Maryo, below Namche
6. On 3rd descend to Lukla in prep for flight on 4th
spent evening filling water, playing cards and then went to bed early
Matt had much better night, less coughing



Hike Day 11: December 29th, 2008
Arose at 6:30
breakfast at 7
Matt, Taylor feeling better
As we left, at 8am Buzz attempted to pet a Yak – got “horned” – nothing too serious
Starting temps 30 degrees F – in sunshine
PERFECT sunshine, no wind day – AWESOME!
Steep climb up to Labouche Pass –
Many memorial stone piles at pass to those who perished climbing surrounding peaks
Continued to terminus of Khumbu glacier
hiked to west edge, although Glacier was hidden by a ridge
Arrived at Labouche early by 11am
Decided to do a quick outing to see the glacier – Richard, Morgann, Dave
Glacier nearly all melted, sort of disappointing, just large ravine of rock and soil debris,
some glacial remnants still visible – else receded as far up as we could see.
Another high glacier to the west
hiked across valley to investigate
ended up in another glacial debris field
loose boulders and soil, very unstable
Good Analogy – how firm a foundation
with light step, HUGE boulders would shift and move, dangerous, unstable
had to quickly hop from the stones that moved (appeared firm, but no real foundation – no matter how massive they appeared)
used trek pole to “test the soil” and rocks
apparently solid ground gave way to slightest pressure, even if grasses growing on it
returned
Richard, Al set out on second walkabout came back cold at 3:30 or so
sun down by 5:30
Hung out in lodge
played bridge hot seat
38 people in lodge – lots! in 20ft x 20 ft space
Dinner at 6:30
more cards
early bedtime

Hike Day 12: December 30th, 2008
Labouche (4950 m) to Gorakshep (5170 m) to Everest Base Camp! (5364 m) and back to Gorakshep
Decision by Al, Buss, Cam, Matt, Taylor (who threw up in night time) to return to Labouche after Base camp (attempt)
Left at 7:30 – COLD! 15 degrees F
Zac nauseous from acrid smoke in common room
Al – severe Altitude Sickness symptoms
Matt – still struggling to breathe (lung infection?)
Taylor – nauseous from food, presumably
All departed at 7:30 – within minutes Zac feet frozen, stopped and warmed up with Matt’s help
Sun finally came out, Zac sped up
Taylor and Cam sped ahead to front
Dave stayed with Matt, Buzz, Al most of way
Richard and Morgann in middle
At Gorakshep by 10:15 to Buddha lodge
Breakfast was pre-ordered, ate and then left toward base camp at 11:00
Buzz feeling altitude, just stayed in Gorakshep.
Matt, Al, Dave, Zac, Richard, Morgann, Taylor and Cam set out
Cam & Taylor out ahead fast, got to Base Camp 1st
Richard, Morgann, Dave, Zac arrived next – on ridge overlooking camp area
Al, Matt presumably turned back after seeing base camp from the ridge – symptoms heavy at altitude
‘Base Camp’ empty, off season, no tents etc.
just some prayer flags and some litter at the site
Everest not visible from site – too close to the mountain
best seen from ridge above camp site
At camp site:
took pics
collected rocks
good overlook on glacial remnants below and Colombia ice all above to east
Taylor and Cam bee-lined back to Al, Matt and Buzz, and set back toward Labouche
Richard, Morgann, Dave and Zac set back to Gorakshep
Dave, Zac and Shishir stopped on ridge over camp site:
built a ‘Chorten’ (really a rock pile memorial) to George and Carol Olmsted
left coin inside, within view of summit and base camp
Dave unfurled secret ‘confession of love’ banner for Angela near Olmsted chorten site
Zac took pics with Everest summit behind us
This site was highest point achieved by McIlleces on the climb, about 15 m above Base Camp, estimated at 5380 m (17,650 ft)
Return to Gorakshep fast for Seiperts, miserable for Dave
cold wind blowing clouds up the valley as usual
started coughing fits, had to keep head down to block with w/hat
hold hankey to mouth to warm breath
just followed Zac’s feet
Zac led Dave down the mountain
Arrive back at 3:45 pm
ate late lunch in ‘sun room’
sun set – instant heat loss
Hanged out in lodge
kids napped under blankets
dried out boots
chatted with Swedish couple, Australian woman
shared jerky, hot chocolate, gum with all
multinational crowd of about 25 persons
ate dinner 7 pm
went to bed after dinner
Richard taught cooks how to make PB&J!



Hike Day 12:
Party 2 – Labouche to Gorakshep to Base Camp attempt – returned to…. Periche
… upon arrival and breakfast at Gorakshep, set out for base camp, except for Buzz
Matt turned back, suffering too much
Al got within sight of base camp – turned around
arrived just after Matt to Gorakshep at 1pm, told Buzz, Matt, Sherpa to leave for Labouche
Al waited for Cam & Taylor – at 2 PM arrived at Gorakshep then left for Labouche
All arrived at Labouche within 5 minutes of each other… 3:30 pm
candy bars for lunch
Gathered bags, packed, headed for Dughla by 3:45 pm
Arrived Dughla 4:45 pm, sun up, weather ok, decided to press on to Periche
Arrived Periche (4278 m) 6pm – 11 hours of hiking!
All symptoms gone by 5 pm!
Stayed at Himalayan Hotel – beds 1 ½ feet too short
restaurant warm, food ok
chatted w/Brit from Liverpool – walking 18 days straight, started in Jiri – SOLO (crazy!)
went straight to bed
Matt still ill, but slept well

Hike Day 13: December 31st, 2008
Richard awakens at 4am – hikes up Kala Patthar at 4:30 with Shishir
hikes in dark, couldn’t find trail – went straight up to 1st bench – then found trail
Richard and Shishir on top by 5:45 AM
wind blowing 15-20 knots
estimated temp 10-15 degrees F without wind chill, with wind chill, maybe -15 degrees!
got great photos of surrounding peaks
Dave, Zac, Morgann awake at 7
radio call at 7:10
back down by 7:15 arrived 7:45
packed
ate at 8:30 (slow kitchen!)
left Gorakshep at 9:00 am (little before), sun shining, light wind, still cold at over 17,000 ft
Cruising down hill
arrived, passed through Labouche about 10 am
passed through Dughla about 10:30
clouds came in, wind picked up – still cold, but spirits high, arrived at Periche by 12:15
Met up with other party at White Yak Lodge
Advance group stayed at Himalayan Hotel, ate breakfast 9:30
played cards till 11 am
asked for fire
asked for fire again
and again and again
offered to gather Yak dung and do it yourself, NO GO!
Al walked up to White Yak – followed card from porter
Al checked rooms – good
Asked will you make a fire? “Yes…”
SOLD
Met Richard, Dave, Zac, Morgann at White Yak just after noon
Nice lodge, stereo, hardwood floors, shower, urinal, etc
spent afternoon, evening playing cards and drying clothes
Dave, Zac and Byrnes washed up head, face, hands
Tried to talk White Yak owner into sleeping in restaurant owner into sleeping in restaurant – wanted 3000 NRS, “no thanks!”
Happy New Year’s Eve – all tired, went to bed


HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Hike Day 14: January 1st, 2009
Periche (4278 m) to Namche Bazaar (3450 m)
breakfast at 7am
Up and out of White Yak at 8am
Air temp 18 degrees F, very COLD first hour
got sun by 9 AM
sun gone by 10 AM
COLDER, but very little wind
whisk of snowfall
lots of up & down
saw musk deer just before Tengboche – AL took pics/video
lunch in Tengboche 11:30
wet, sweat-soaked, cold – no fire!
Ate quick, pressed on –
hiking down then back up – into clouds
Arrived to Namche at 3:30 (Zac emergency potty stop in the woods)
Dried socks, coats, sat around stove
Taylor ate ½ mandarin orange…in 1 hour 15 minutes!
called home, told them all okay
tried to arrange early flight from Lukla – clouds cancelled all flights today
still planning to press on to Lukla tomorrow
ate dinner 7 pm, ate food brought from home: MREs, freeze-dried, Happy New Year’s feast

Hike Day 15: January 2nd, 2009
Namche Bazaar (3450 m) to Lukla (2800 m)
Up at 6:30
breakfast at 7, oatmeal nasty
start hike by 8 AM
GOOD weather, clear, almost no wind
Pushed hard all day
1st group made Phakding by 11:45, decided to press on
Al, Buzz behind about an hour, Matt, Cam variable
Byrnes met up at Phakding about 12:30
Seiperts, McIlleces pressed on to Lukla
Taylor, Zac w/Dave arrived Lukla at 1:15
Richard, Morgann right behind arrived by 1:30
Ate lunch in Khumbu Resort (same as 1st day)
Cam arrived about 2:15
Byrnes arrived at 3:30
rested, ate
got fire started after prodding
Richard started un-braiding Morgann’s hair (starting 4pm into evening…)
Played cards, dried feet
Al went hippy with Morgann’s fake hair
Cam sick after lunch, throwing up – not happy camper
dinner at 7:30 – 8; celebrated with a Chocolate Cake…not bad tasting!
Confirmed that we will fly tomorrow, 3rd flight if weather good
went to bed by 9



Hike Day 16: January 3rd, 2009
really “fly day” Lukla to Kathmandu
up at 7, ready to go by 8, scheduled flight at 9am
Weather perfect!
planes slow departing from Kathmandu
ate breakfast, waited
1st planes arrived around 11am
wave of 5 planes!
video capture
we enjoyed watching landings, takeoffs
as 1st wave left, we went to airport to check-in
no security
weighed bags
COLD terminal!
pictures with our porters
helicopters came, refueled (cans) big gov’t chopper, rescued person?
we flew out finally about 2pm
Gorkha Air, although ticketed on Yeti
Dornier 228 (not twin otter)
just like arrival
fun take off roll
low flight over hills to Kathmandu
Arrive about 2:45, luggage claim outside
Pampha’s van picked us up – took to Thamal for lunch at Fire and Ice Pizza
Hawaiian Pizza, Sprites, Cheese Bread…yeah!!!
Then to Hotel Vaishali, check in, rooms bigger, but no hot water
poor Zac – luke warm shower
leaky bathroom floors, Seiperts too
Wet carpet hallway
Last straw…LEAVE! Called Pampha – moving to Hyatt Regency
We’ll pay the difference (~20 USD)
Pampha met – we reloaded and drove HYATT AWESOME! Quick shower
Out to dinner at LAZY GRINGO, Mexican – YUM!
Pigged out, but no ice cream (or beer – sorry Byrnes)!
Dropped Pampha off at her home – will return tomorrow for dinner!
Back to Hyatt
Zac and I checked out hotel quick
Back to room – Zac to bed
Dave stayed up washing laundry, pants, ‘black goo’ runoff, 30 minutes of scrubbing!
Hung all to dry
Sleep by 11:30 – had to call to silence Bollywood movie blaring next door
Up 4x in night, nose dried out, stuffed, bleeding fast, once

Hike Day 17: January 4th, 2009
Kathmandu, Day 2
Slept in till 8:30! YES!
Call from Taylor – “we’re all down here…”
Rose, bathed/showered, AWESOME!
Breakfast at CafĂ©’ Buffet – AWESOME!
Zac joined Taylor, Cam, Buzz, Al in Sauna, hot tub, etc.
pool hopping outside too
Dave back to room to update notes
plan to hit town at 11 am
Went in taxis to thamel; shop, shop, shop
Ate lunch at Krua Thai restaurant…good pad thai, but Byrne’s food Never came!!! Bad Service…
Finally delivered with much complaint
Went across road to get Thai foot massage…and head, neck too. All but Richard
Loaded up in company van and off to Pampha’s home.
Pampha treated to feast of takeout and home cooked chicken, lamb, etc.
Met her family – husband is a very successful flooring and furniture businessman!
Kids got along well with Pampha’s son and daughter…filled in ‘friends book’
Power outage while there…VERY COLD in her home. Most of us unprepared for temps
Left and returned to hotel by 9:30 or so. Back home to hit showers and baths
Dave called Ange, asked for call-back. Telecom lines terrible, but managed to chat for a while.
Slept like rocks!

Hike Day 18: January 5th, 2009
Kathmandu to Delhi Return Day
Arose and enjoyed Breakfast at Hotel
Ended up paying for rooms…Pampha’s cash back used to pay airport fees (ridiculous scam by Nepali gov’t!) and Shishir/Mickey tips. Worked out well
Rode from Hotel to Fire and Ice for one last meal, most got ice cream – lots of it!
Pampha left us with scarves and warm thank yous
Dropped off Al and Buzz near embassy
Seiperts, McIllece’s. Matt and Cam went to airport
Fought the crowds, through security
Richard is questioned…about his rocks!!
“These are weapons” argument…Made Richard go below and place in checked baggage…inane! arbitrary! absurd!
All made the flight – smooth, but bad food (that we had to buy!)
Baggage made it fast
Al and Buzz followed later
Home by 5 PM!

This last photo collage is of Richard taking out Mo's braids and removing all the fake hair that had been braided into them. Then Al and Dave decided to play a little "dress up".